Arafat Standing to Mark Haj Climax.
     
        
      MINA, 19 January 2005 - The valley of Mina reverberated with the chants of the talbiyah as more than three million pilgrims prepared for their journey today to the Plains of Arafat to bring this year's Haj to a grand climax.

      The pilgrims' collective chant of "Labbaik Allahumma Labbaik" (Here I am Oh Lord, answering your call) filled the air as the tent city stood witness to what looked like the largest Haj in history.

      The morning was cool, more so for older pilgrims in their seamless garb but the sun soon came out and brought warmth to the pilgrims' delight. To Pakistani Ghulam Haider from Lari Kot who also performed Haj last year, the weather seemed very cold. "Last year, the weather was better and pleasanter. Older pilgrims have problems with the cold; some of them have developed fever."

      Pilgrims from Iraq - especially those from Fallujah - were sought out by the media who hounded them for their reactions to the recent troubles there.

      Abdullah Jasssiri from Latifiyah near Baghdad was happy just to be alive. "I have come to perform Haj to show my gratitude to the Almighty for saving me and my family members' lives from bombings and cross-fires."

      He was also seeking more help. "I pray for peace and security to return to my motherland," said Jassiri.

      The comments of other Iraqis were more somber and focused on the next world instead of this. Fifty-two-year old Umm Muhammad from Fallujah was very bitter at what had happened to her city. "I lost my husband and my son in the bombing that devastated most of Fallujah," she said through tears. "This pilgrimage is to seek paradise for my martyred family members. This is the least I can do for them."

      The security and other arrangements are amazing. A top Haj official said, "Everything is moving smoothly according to our plan." The authorities have put in place a revised plan for the stoning of the devil to avoid the tragedies which have occurred during that ritual in the past. 

      According to Osama Sumanoudi of the South Asian Establishment for Pilgrims, all pilgrims have been instructed not to carry their luggage onto the bridge. In the past, pilgrims left their baggage on the way to the Jamrat and by leaving it, created dangerous obstacles to other pilgrims. Now the luggage will be taken by representatives of the establishment to which the pilgrims belong before they reach the bridge.

      Another change made by the authorities aiming at the smooth flow of pilgrims during stoning the Jamrat is the size of the jamrat; they have been greatly increased. Earlier jamrat were in the shape of cement columns whereas now they have been made larger so that pilgrims can throw stones from greater distances. Both the size and design have been completely changed. The roads on both side of the Jamrat Bridge have also been considerably widened to enable the pilgrims to move more smoothly.

      The Mina valley, which is the pilgrims' first stop on their way to the Plains of Arafat for the climax of Haj today, witnessed a unique bond of brotherhood and warmth among the Muslim Ummah. There was no discrimination on the basis of color, creed or nationality. All of them were reciting the talbiyah - a prayer unifying pilgrims.

      Once in the valley pilgrims everywhere - in their tents as well as on pavements and adjoining hills - were busy in prayer and recitation of the Holy Qur'an as they prepared themselves for the trek to Arafat. However, the otherwise charged atmosphere in the valley was subdued yesterday. Some pilgrims looked tired and disoriented. 

      Peace was uppermost in the mind of a pilgrim from Anantnag in Indian Kashmir. "Muslims all over the world are facing problems due to attacks by anti-Islamic forces," said Abdul Aziz Geelani. The frustration and disgust is noticeable. Geelani said that he would "pray for peace to prevail in the world - especially in Iraq, Palestine and Kashmir. I want nothing but peace and security. For me, everything else comes after that." Geelani's daughter, Farzana, who was with him, expressed similar sentiments.

      As in every other year, thousands of "freelance Hajis" were squatting all around the tent city and making the movement of pilgrims and vehicles difficult. Many of them were sleeping on the pavement after a tiring journey from Makkah that had taken hours. But they had no complaints. "Delays are not unexpected," said Muammaer Al-Hussaim from Qatar. "You can't move fast when thousands of people are walking together in the same direction."

      Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims converged on Mina and by the evening, the whole valley was a sea of humanity. Pilgrims made their way onto the plains of Mina in buses, cars and on foot and looked ready for the demanding rituals ahead of them.

      Policemen were directing pilgrims and making way for buses and ambulances. Sweepers cleaned the roads leading to Jamrat so that no debris would impede or injure the barefoot pilgrims.

      Pilgrims praised this year's improved arrangements. After spending a full day and last night in prayer and meditation in Mina, pilgrims will move to Arafat today. Pilgrims then return to Muzdalifa after sunset and spend the night there, proceeding to Mina after collecting pebbles for the ritual of stoning the Jamrat. They will stone Jamrah Al-Aqaba representing the devil and sacrifice animals to mark the Eid Al-Adha which is on Thursday. 
     
      Haj Reflections: Day One.
     
        
      The pilgrims set off on the journey of a lifetime in cold, windy, overcast weather. The conditions were challenging especially for the men who were wrapped in nothing more than two pieces of white cloth. Some of the elderly pilgrims from tropical lands were visibly shivering and everyone was walking quickly to get under some sort of cover.

      With dark clouds overhead and the weathermen predicting that the cloud cover will continue, authorities are concerned that rain is in the forecast. In their Haj Report, MEPA stated that flooding in Arafat is a possibility if heavy rain falls. This causes issues from the perspective of mobility and sanitation. Slick roads lead to vehicle accidents that bring traffic to a halt. Rain makes it harder to collect rubbish, creates mud, increases insect breeding activity and reduces the effectiveness of disinfectants. The sun came out for just a few minutes around midday, so anxiety is high on the weather front.

      The pilgrims from Arab countries actually delight in rain and were enjoying the cloudy conditions. Pilgrims who were suffering in the chill took it with good humor, stating that it was one of the sacrifices of Haj.


      * * *

      Early yesterday morning Mina was deserted but by noon the town was a sea of white. From Mina's King Abdul Aziz Bridge, the white tents and pilgrims packed the area. Squatters have also glued themselves to every square centimeter of open space. Every year authorities face the problem of pilgrims without permits and despite all measures to control them, these pilgrims without muttawif still make their way to Mina.

      Part of the problem is that the cost of Haj has risen too high for the pilgrims from some countries to pay. For example, a janitor from Bangladesh working in Jeddah might earn as little as SR500 per month. He will be unable to save enough to afford the minimum SR2,000 fee charged by Jeddah's Haj agencies. So instead of sitting in his room during the Eid vacation, this Muslim takes a chance and tries to perform the pilgrimage without a permit. That means he will have no tent, organized food or transport. He will walk the entire journey with his belongings strapped on his back, using any piece of open land for everything from sleeping to personal hygiene.

      Security forces could be seen pleading with these squatters but there is little that they can do. The police are under orders to treat the guests of Allah with kindness and the pilgrims simply will not follow the instructions of the officers. One top Asian Haj official was wringing his hands in frustration. "These pilgrims without permit are a risk to the health and safety of all. They are breaking the law and we can only pray that God will accept their pilgrimage under these circumstances," he said. "Their presence is not the problem of Saudi security forces. It is the fault of all of us who do not educate Muslims to understand the problems and dangers of coming to Haj without adequate arrangements."


      * * *

      There is a huge security presence in Mina. Officers are posted on every bridge, street and crossing. This security presence will grow in coming days. The government has made plans to prevent any stampede in the Jamarat area. The pillar representing the Great Satan has been enormously increased in size and its shape is now hexagonal. This is in order to make it easier for pilgrims to hit the pillar during the stoning ritual. One official said that computer simulation showed that the new shape and size could be easily hit with a small pebble even from a great distance. This should keep pilgrims moving through the area rather than causing a blockage while they try and try again to hit the pillar, even though in truth, having the pebble make contact with the pillar is not required.


      * * *

      There is also a new strategy to cope with the huge amount of human traffic converging on the stoning area as the pilgrims return from Muzdalifah. This year, as every year, pilgrims are under instructions to go to their tents first, leave their baggage and then proceed to stoning the Great Satan as a group. If the pilgrims choose to ignore such instructions and bring their baggage with them to the stoning area, then security forces will relieve them of their baggage before the pilgrims will be allowed to make their way to the bridge to complete the ritual. The bags will be tagged and sent to a secure area for collection by muttawif representatives.


      * * *

      On Thursday, the third day of Haj, as the pilgrims approach Al-Jowhara Street and Al-Arab Street to move to the stoning area, they will be met by security forces forming a human chain every 10 meters. If the streets are too crowded, the pilgrims will be blocked from moving forward by the security forces. Once the pilgrims are on the main streets leading into the open space before the Jamarat area, any baggage in their possession will be removed. Then they will channeled by rows of security forces toward specific entrances to perform the stoning ritual. They will complete the ritual and exit through one of 10 exits, all well removed from the entrance to the Jamarat. Security forces stationed on the Jamarat Bridge will prevent any pilgrim from turning around and attempting to move into the oncoming crowds on the bridge. All of these measures are being taken in an attempt to prevent any mass tragedy in the Jamarat area.


      * * *

      While the pilgrims are at Mina for prayer and reflection, opportunities for a bit of commercial activity abound. Shafi Hosain from Komila, Bangladesh, was selling emergency mobile chargers for SR10. He definitely had the right product for his target market because his wares were selling like hotcakes. Almost everyone at the pilgrimage has a mobile phone. Those with relatives in Saudi Arabia arranged for the purchase of SAWA SIM cards in advance. Others were forced to turn to vendors selling the "pilgrim chip." Many reported paying up to SR280 for a SR200 SAWA card. Once again many pilgrims from former Soviet Republics such as Dagestan can also be seen. These Muslims take as long as six months to reach Makkah. They sell goods at numerous markets in countries on the way to Saudi Arabia. Even at the Haj, they are famous for selling Russian binoculars, which are in great demand.


      * * *

      It is comforting to see that despite all the violence around the world, here in Mina peace is on the minds of all. Asking a father and daughter from Anantnag, Kashmir, what they would be praying for at Arafat today they both replied, "We want peace. We want security." The father elaborated, "When we go out of our homes, we are not sure what will happen to us. We are not sure if we will come back alive or not. So we are living in constant fear. Can you imagine what that is like? Fear pervades our lives all the time. On the day of Arafat we want peace for our entire community. We want peace for the whole world, not just Muslims. The international community should learn from this peaceful global gathering of Muslims for Haj. Believe me, when I pray at Arafat, I will be beseeching God to forgive us all, not just the Muslims. I don't want harm to come anyone's way, Muslim or not."



            Defiant Squatters Pose a Headache.
           
              
            MINA, 19 January 2005 - Pilgrims were facing a lot of hardship in moving around and finding their camps due to squatting by pilgrims all over the place in the valley of Mina yesterday. These pilgrims' enthusiasm to perform Haj knows no limits and is not regulated by the rules of law.

            The squatters are mostly legal residents of the Kingdom who have sneaked into the holy site to perform pilgrimage without having proper Haj permits. They have not booked with any muallim and have no place of their own to stretch out. They have spread their belongings on the pavements and roads while praying and reading the holy book.

            Despite all the restrictions at the checkpoints on the outer periphery of Makkah and Mina these pilgrims managed to sneak into Mina in large numbers to make life miserable for other pilgrims.

            As per the law of the land anyone who wishes to perform Haj needs a permit from the Passport Department. Both Saudis and expatriates are restricted to perform Haj only once in five years.

            However, many zealous pilgrims come through illegal means disregarding all norms. Their presence in large numbers adds to the pressure on the already stretched official machinery. But they remain unrepentant and defiant.

            Bakr Al-Zahrani, a Saudi coming from Hail, had no remorse for adopting illegal channels to come to Mina without proper documentation and causing hardship to those coming from far-flung parts of the world.

            "Haj is a sacred religious rite and you cannot overlook this factor. Moreover, in the last couple of years it has been highly commercialized and left little room for low- income group people to perform it by paying the muallim for his services and by affording other incidental expenses. This is one of the reasons why people come on their own to perform Haj."

            Haj is the fifth pillar of Islam and obligatory only on those able-bodied Muslims who can afford it.

            Ashiruddin Alim, a Bangladeshi construction supervisor from Jeddah, expressed similar sentiments lying on the sidewalks of Shar-e-Jowhra here.

            "I have been in the Kinbgdom for the last seven years and if I have to save money for Haj and wait for permission, it will take another seven years for me to undertake this pilgrimage," Alim said. "Moreover, Haj is one of the attractions for people like us to work in the Kingdom."

            Whatever arguments these pilgrims give in support of violating the rules and embarking on this journey of a lifetime, one thing is clearly evident that their that their zeal and religious fervor is a burden on the logistics of the holy sites and makes it difficult for legitimate pilgrims to perform their religious duties smoothly.

            The enthusiasm of these illegal pilgrims has spawned a big business for touts who assist these people to sneak into Mina. Sometimes, they charge hefty sums for their services.

            Saleh Muhammad from Egypt was one such illegal pilgrim who doled out SR400 to a tout for a "safe passsage" into the tent city. 

            "I was stopped at Makkah checkpoint but thank God, I met a person who took SR400 and brought me here and Alhamdullilah I'm performing Haj," said Muhammad.

            One of these pilgrims got agitated when asked about his sources for coming to Mina. "This is none of your business, go awy. I have to pray. I have endured tremendous physical and mental hardship to come to this place," said a Sudanese, Mahdi Khalaf.

            Mahdi had no answer when told that his presence was causing hardship to many fellow pilgrims.

            Officials admit that thousands of pilgrims do sneak in illegally. "It is very difficult to detect them among the throng of millions, said a security official.

            Authorities also admit that the problem of squatters have grown steadily over the past couple of years.

            One official said they "are looking at various options available before us to control this menace. Some new measures are being considered to minimize this infiltration."



                  Hundreds Without Haj Permits Turned Back From Checkpoints. 
                    
                  MAKKAH, 19 January 2005 - The Makkah police have prevented more than 500 pilgrims without proper Haj permits from entering Makkah. The pilgrims were arrested at ten different points which are often used by those without legal permits. Once inside the area, they are free to proceed to Makkah and the holy sites.

                  Police began monitoring the entry points some 24 hours before the beginning of Haj. Interior Minister Prince Naif has directed the authorities to increase their presence at entry points in order to prevent pilgrims without permits from entering Makkah.

                  Those who smuggle the illegal pilgrims into the city charge from SR200 to SR500 per person. One smuggler made some SR15,000 last year and the total number of illegal pilgrims last year was in excess of 300,000.

                  Most of the Saudis who were turned back expressed their regret at not having legal permits. Some said they would try to get into Makkah later when the road was crowded while others said they would return home and would try again next year. A number of vehicles have also been seized. The cars will not be released to the owners until after Haj.

                  A common sight is to see groups of people begging the police to let them enter Makkah. The police, however, are not allowing cars or pilgrims without permits to enter the city.
                 

           





     

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