Liberia: First Impressions

http://www.theperspective.org/december2003/firstimpressions.html

By: Ezekiel Pajibo

The Perspective
Atlanta, Georgia

December 18, 2003

As the Air Weasua landed at Roberts International Airport, and the 16 seater 
Soviet built plane opened its rear door and passengers disembarked, the hot 
and humid wind of the South Atlantic hit my face and the sweat began to 
stream from my bald head down my face, I knew that at long last, I had 
arrived home, sweet home. I left on February 12, 1986 and was making my 
first trip to Liberia. I finally returned to the blessed land of Liberty. 
Strangely, a line from the Liberian national anthem came to mind: ".We will 
shout the freedom of a race benighted." Somehow the word benighted 
captivated my imagination for the first time. I can't really say why but it 
did. What is clear in any case is that the physical landscape of Liberia 
that appeared lushed green from thousands of feet above is surely a 
"benighted" land once you set foot on it. Nothing can prepare you for what 
is today Monrovia and dare I say Liberia. The country is just simply one 
large dump - the level of destruction, destitution and wretchedness is not 
only overwhelming but equally daunting and depressing. The people have been 
so miserably pauperised and most of those who are pretending to be the new 
statesmen are largely a bunch of crooks and scoundrels. Welcome to the new 
Liberia, the one like the phoenix we, Liberians will have to rise out of the 
ashes.

It is not uncommon during a transitional period for individuals to lobby and 
seek positions in government. But the situation in Liberia, which is a shell 
of its former self mandates that those who seek public service must do so 
bearing in mind the welfare of the Liberian people. The statements emanating 
from signatories to the Comprehensive Accra Peace Plan (CAPP) and the 
calibre of persons being nominated leaves so much more to be desired. While 
one might find countenance in the fact that this is only an interregnum, the 
attitude and sense of entitlement on display is nauseating. But like their 
successors, "this too will pass away." Liberians can only hold their noses 
and swallow this bitter pill. In a recent newspaper article about repair 
work on a burst manhole, the writer noted that "the hold your nose and pass" 
situation on Gurley Street will soon be something of the past.

Having said all of that let me tell you some of the good things I have 
returned to. My moms and pops are alive, although they have all lost 
everything like the majority of Liberians. So far I know that three of my 
brothers died during the war, another three are rebel fighters in two of the 
warring factions, all my sisters are alive. I have had dumball and soup, 
fufu and soup, check rice and gravy, plantain soup with bony in it. And yes, 
I have gone to Pepper Bush and dance the night away. No, I have not yet had 
toborgee and rice but it won't be too long. The restaurant, where people go 
to see and be seen is Panache. It is quite elegant, given the condition in 
the country. But there is so much that can happen in the country. I was at 
the Beach too and there, with the water temperature quite warm, you could go 
swimming all night long but services in this sector are wanting as well.

The service industry, especially the tourism sector is severely 
underdeveloped and lots of potential there; telecommunication is another 
sector that could use more investors and players - the price of a phone call 
is ridiculously high - only one provider, the Lone Star. With the abolition 
of monopoly on a number of imports including rice, the possibilities and the 
potential are immense. Though the government is calling for a market 
economy, there will be in the foreseeable future, a dire need for the state 
to be involved in the economy especially in the provision of basic services 
including water, electricity, education, health and infrastructural 
development such as roads and bridges repair.

The air is still salty and sticky and the yanna boys, yanna girls and yanna 
children are all over the place. "Boil egg hereeee", "Cold water: to cold 
your chest", "Chiclet: to rock your jaw" "Sweet and juicy orange here" 
"President Pen, buy it and sign your signature" The cacophony of the market 
place is as vibrant as ever, and if anyone said that Liberians are not 
enterprising, they haven't been to Monrovia yet. You can buy almost anything 
you want - not from in the comfort of a store but on the sidewalk. Monrovia 
is one huge flea market with live music; of the Jesus is Saviour variety and 
all. The informal sector of the Liberian economy and remittances from 
Liberians abroad are the driving force in the economy, especially with 
unemployment as high as 75 percent and the majority of those employed, not 
getting their salaries. The Armed Forces for example have not being paid for 
three years. I have run into a few returnees from the States who are acting 
like they have something useful to offer the country when the fact is they 
just are trying to get a piece of the pie.

Then there are the few committed Liberians who are working very hard to 
return the country to its former glory. I know some of you may be 
squeamishing about what former glory? Without a scintilla of doubt, Liberia, 
prior to 1980 and even up till 1989 was by far better off then it is today. 
Taylor's legacy is a destroyed country and a vanquished people. But like the 
Eritreans of thirty years ago, Liberians will never kneel down. This is why 
all Liberians are called upon to put Liberia first.


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Ezekiel Pajibo is a freelance political commentator in Monrovia.

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