Sorry, When I came into this conversation I thought it was about prepping glazing bars prior to reglazing. I recommended prime painting so the vehicle isn't drawn from the glazing compound prior to cure.

Twybil
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Marcham <[log in to unmask]>
To: BULLAMANKA-PINHEADS <[log in to unmask]>
Sent: Wed, May 1, 2013 10:19 am
Subject: Re: [BP] PAINT PREP IN ROCKPORT

Help me understand what sealing the wood with linseed oil does. It seems to me 
that sealing the wood would reduce the opportunity for the primer to soak into 
the wood for more "bite." Does it not inhibit that but also prevent moisture 
that is migrating from inside the house from popping the paint off (something I 
seem to see often)? Perhaps by inhibiting the primer from soaking in (and in a 
sense getting diluted) the primer actually works better?

I think I understand the need to seal the wood window frames with linseed oil so 
the glazing compound doesn't dry out so much (or so fast). 

Bruce (looking forward to painting projects of my own this summer) Marcham

-----Original Message-----
From: The listserv where the buildings do the talking [mailto:[log in to unmask]] 
On Behalf Of Becker, Dan
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 9:20 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [BP] PAINT PREP IN ROCKPORT

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Hicks
> Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 6:46 AM

> Does anyone have a reason that the 151 or linseed oil should not be used?
> Maybe because the siding needs to "breath"? One thing I am going to 
> use is the latex instead of the oil since I think it will be less brittle.
> The house is 1/2 block from the ocean and gets a ton of salt & sand 
> from the Nor'easters that come thru every year.
> Any thoughts?

I don't think it would be a problem. Presuming it is clapboard, the house will 
still breath through the gaps on the underside of the clapboard overlap. This 
presumes further that you are not going to do something ill-advised like caulk 
that joint.

How many/thick/old layers of paint are there now? At some point you get enough 
buildup that there is a mechanical breakdown of the adhesion of paint to wood.

Any areas where the paint is completely gone from the wood surface should be 
lightly-sanded to sound material to remove the UV-degraded wood fibers on the 
surface that have also deteriorated due to exposure to water.

HTH,
Dan



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