Tyb, That is basically why the sealer (BOILED linseed oil/turp) is the first layer when refinishing. The linseed oil prevents the 'vehicle' from being drawn from the prime. On May 1, 2013, at 1:07 PM, Michael wrote: > Sorry, When I came into this conversation I thought it was about prepping glazing bars prior to reglazing. I recommended prime painting so the vehicle isn't drawn from the glazing compound prior to cure. > > Twybil > -----Original Message----- > From: Bruce Marcham <[log in to unmask]> > To: BULLAMANKA-PINHEADS <[log in to unmask]> > Sent: Wed, May 1, 2013 10:19 am > Subject: Re: [BP] PAINT PREP IN ROCKPORT > > Help me understand what sealing the wood with linseed oil does. It seems to me > that sealing the wood would reduce the opportunity for the primer to soak into > the wood for more "bite." Does it not inhibit that but also prevent moisture > that is migrating from inside the house from popping the paint off (something I > seem to see often)? Perhaps by inhibiting the primer from soaking in (and in a > sense getting diluted) the primer actually works better? > > I think I understand the need to seal the wood window frames with linseed oil so > the glazing compound doesn't dry out so much (or so fast). > > Bruce (looking forward to painting projects of my own this summer) Marcham > > -----Original Message----- > From: The listserv where the buildings do the talking [mailto:[log in to unmask]] > On Behalf Of Becker, Dan > Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 9:20 AM > To: [log in to unmask] > Subject: Re: [BP] PAINT PREP IN ROCKPORT > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Jim Hicks > > Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 6:46 AM > > > Does anyone have a reason that the 151 or linseed oil should not be used? > > Maybe because the siding needs to "breath"? One thing I am going to > > use is the latex instead of the oil since I think it will be less brittle. > > The house is 1/2 block from the ocean and gets a ton of salt & sand > > from the Nor'easters that come thru every year. > > Any thoughts? > > I don't think it would be a problem. Presuming it is clapboard, the house will > still breath through the gaps on the underside of the clapboard overlap. This > presumes further that you are not going to do something ill-advised like caulk > that joint. > > How many/thick/old layers of paint are there now? At some point you get enough > buildup that there is a mechanical breakdown of the adhesion of paint to wood. > > Any areas where the paint is completely gone from the wood surface should be > lightly-sanded to sound material to remove the UV-degraded wood fibers on the > surface that have also deteriorated due to exposure to water. > > HTH, > Dan > > > > -- > **Please remember to trim posts, as requested in the Terms of Service** > > To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the uncoffee-ed, or > to change your settings, go to: > <http://listserv.icors.org/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html> > > -- > **Please remember to trim posts, as requested in the Terms of Service** > > To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the uncoffee-ed, or > to change your settings, go to: > <http://listserv.icors.org/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html> > > -- > **Please remember to trim posts, as requested in the Terms of Service** > > To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the uncoffee-ed, or to change your settings, go to: http://listserv.icors.org/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html -- **Please remember to trim posts, as requested in the Terms of Service** To terminate puerile preservation prattling among pals and the uncoffee-ed, or to change your settings, go to: <http://listserv.icors.org/archives/bullamanka-pinheads.html>